Beautiful lakes and superb waterfalls sparkle all over France. But one can also rediscover great forests and the swampy areas (havens of biodiversity), vertical seaside cliffs, and spectacular grottos, gigantic canyons and prestigious summits.
Whether it’s on an intimate or a grand scale, France’s nature presents all kinds of scenery - an incredibly dense collection of astonishing natural sites.
Mineral and aquatic extravagances
The game of erosion of rock by water has over time created multiple natural and geological curiosities in all the regions of France. The Gorges of the Ardèche, Abîme de Bramabiau, etc. A few examples:
Gorges of the Verdon, between the Southern Alps and interior Provence
The Verdon is a river that crosses a region full of sunshine, a limestone base sculpted by time. The Verdon flows to a grand fault, about 300-500 meters deep, and around 40 km long. The route along the ledges provides exceptional panoramic views from above. But the experienced hiker can also follow a steeper path all the way to the bottom of the canyon.
The Grand Goulets, in Vercors
Combe Laval, the gorges of la Bourne and the Grand Goulets make up a group of impressive canyons, cutting the “rampart” cliffs of the Vercors massif. One can add other geological “tidbits of bravery”: the basin of Malleval and the gorges of Nan, the canyon of Ecouges, etc.
Gorges of the Tarn
Cutting off the Causses, the vast solitary plateaus, the Tarn river creates a “vertical world” where tiny, isolated and superbly conserved villages are nestled. The picture is completed by the gorges of la Jonte, which are even wilder.
Spring of Vaucluse, in Provence
This spectacular spring (the source has a very strong flow) is at the exit of a subterranean river with a surprising path: the water gushes out heavily at the foot of the basin of a cliff 250 meters in height, after having been brought up by siphons through a tunnel situated at least 300 meters deep! The last exploration on record could only be completed by an underwater machine controlled by radio! Our subterranean spaces still hold great mysteries.
The Abyss of Padirac, in Périgord
This giant pit, more than 75 meters deep (33 meters in diameter) allows visitors to access (by elevator or stairs) a subterranean river that can be traveled by boat! At the heart of the department of le Lot, on the Causse de Gramat, Padirac is a classic, but is always surprising…
“Sites of Character” in Brittany
Off the coast of the Cotes d’Armor (in Northern Brittany) a small island, the île de Bréhat, pretty and full of flowers, contrasted with the wild coast of reefs, sly currents all around. The sea takes on an epic air here, where the low tide makes for easy harvesting of algae, and the high tide gives sailors a chance to prove their mettle.
Between Morbihan and the Pays de la Loire (south of Brittany), the peninsula of Guérande stretches out over about 5,000 acres of salty marsh (between the medieval city of Guérande and the active fishing port of le Croisic), where workers carefully and patiently rake up “fleur de sel.” The salts here make up a true tapestry of colors.
Humid zones, precious havens of biodiversity
From Cotentin-Bessin (Normandy) to Saint-Omer (Nord-Pas de Calais), from the Camargue to la Brière (the Estuary of the Loire river), from the Marais Poitevin to the ponds of la Dombes (Rhone-Alpes) and the fields of Alsace: almost every region of France contains remarkable spaces, playing the harmony between the water and the plants giving refuge to a rich variety of bird species, spaces carefully preserved and maintained by man. For example, the swamps of Berry and of Poitou and the swamps of la Brenne.
Near Châteauroux, this region of “1,000 ponds” is preserved by a natural regional park and illustrates all the charms of rural France.
Forests: a French “specialty”
From Fontainebleau (Ile-de-France) to AÏtone (in Corsica), from Risoux (in the mountains of the Jura) to Iraty (in the Basque Country), from Landes to Lorraine or Morvan, many kinds of nature open up. The most beautiful leaves and oaks are found notably in the forest of Tronçais (Berry) and the conifers (furs and spruces) have a wonderful reputation in the Chartreuse massif (Isère-Dauphiné).
Les Faux de Verzy (in Champagne)
A unique phenomenon in Europe, the beech trees here are bizarrely shaped and have a ghostly appeal.
The Beech Grove of Sainte-Baume (in Provence)
A beautiful forest (with very tall trees including beeches, maples, and plane trees) extends from the foot of the north side to a ridgeline 12km long: the mountain of la Sainte-Baume. This provençale paradise of deep green seems a bit anachronistic amid the scrublands and pine forests beneath the sunbeams. A happy anomaly: this forest is not the victim of summer forest fires. The experts of the National Forest Office (ONF) talk of a “relic forest” that’s a model of biodiversity. Moreover, the ONF is driving a unique experience called “integral reserve,” in other words “without the intervention of man: no cutting, no replanting.” What’s more, the department of Var is the most wooded in France, with 56% of its area covered by the forests of Sainte-Baume, Maures, and Estérel.
Seaside Cliffs
On the 5,500 km of coastline in continental France, you’ll find numerous “vertical landscapes.”
The Calanques Massif: one of the next national parks
The “brilliant white” limestone base that falls in the “grand blue” is spectacularly carved and sculpted by erosion, sheltering sumptuous basins. This 20-km-long mineral universe between Marseille and Cassis is, however, a neighborhood of the port city! This “morcel of nature” will soon benefit national park status. Please note: the walk is very limited and is regulated in the summer, because of the risk of forest fires.
The Calanch of Pina (in Corsica)
These cliffs that “dive” into the gulf of Porto distinguish themselves from the Calanques in Provence because of their “red” hue. It is after all the island of beauty that adopts this “brassy tan” along with its other high points: Pointe de Scandole, the aiguilles of Bavella…
The cliffs of Etretat (in Normandy)
Porte d’Amont, Manneporte… the white cliffs and rock arches of Etretat and this country of Caux, carved by the waves of la Manche, are recognized the world over.
The sands of the seaside
From la Manche to the Atlantic, the dunes punctuate the coasts of the North or the Vendée. In Normandy, the most subdued dunes of Hatainville or of Biville reach 80 meters in height, not far from the European record held by the Pyla dune (at 106 meters), the guardian of the Arcachon basin.
Prestigious Peaks
There are of course the glaciers and peaks emblematic of the Alps, at more than 4,000 meters: Mont-Blanc, la Barre des Ecrins, or la Meije, etc. But the mountain spirit is also found in other massifs…
La Dent d’Oche (Haute-Savoie)
This massif in Chablais (between lake Léman and Mont-Blanc) presents a singular relief, with high mountain pastures full of rocks, very sharp but still accessible to careful hikers: Cornettes de Bise, Roc de Fer, or Dent d’Oche. A very, very narrow path follows the summit of the rocky ridge. Thrills are guaranteed! Another unique aspect of la Dent d’Oche: a lodge nestled just under the peak, at 2,114 meters in altitude.
Mont Aigoual and its surroundings (in Lozère)
Mount Aigoual is 1,567 meters high, but is not the highest peak in the Cevennes massif. It still suffers from the worst climate conditions in France: snow storms, flash floods, and gusts of wind make this a unique place, ideal for installing a very special observatory for the French weather service. The observatory is transformed into a sort of “polar base” in the winter!
Nearby, one can also visit the grotto of Aven Armand or the Abîme de Bramabiau (the Abyss of Bramabiau – paid access): another spring that’s exceptional in terms of its scale and its beauty.
Mont Ventoux (Vaucluse)
Made famous again this year by the Tour de France, the “giant of Provence” (dominating the entire region from its height of 1,912 meters) promises a veritable show to visitors: replanted forests of cedars and pines at the bottom of the sides, wild canyons (la Nesque, le Toulourenc) all around, vineyards on the south side, and a totally bald part at the very top, all made of stone! UNESCO has classified the whole thing as a biosphere reserve.
Le Puy de Dôme
Peaking at 1,465 meters, this conical summit shines over Auvergne and its collection of 80 inactive volcanoes. Imposing its silhouette, it was venerated in Gallo-Roman times (the temple of Mercury) and is now sought after by champion cyclists! Access to the site is protected with a shuttle-bus system throughout the summer and on weekends when the weather is nice. In spite of the crowds, this destination merits a trip, notably for its surprising history (it was the site of a scientific experiment by Blaise Pascal in the 17th century, the first mountain tramway in 1907, etc.)
The Valley of Marvels (La Vallée des Merveilles) (Alpes-Maritimes Mercantour)
At the heart of the Mercantour massive, the Alpine peaks have a view of the Mediterranean! But one of their valleys holds the promises that advance the name: lakes at an altitude set in charming scenery where chamois frolic. But above all, hundreds of age-old cave paintings around Mont Bégo, creating a sorty of “Lascaux caves under the open sky.”
The Pyrenees: The Basin of Gavarnie and Pic du Midi de Bigorre
An example of the type of interior of summit walls (reaching 3,000 meters) and where a waterfall of 400 meters in height (a record in Europe) splashes down, the basin of Gavarnie impressed Victor Hugo and many others! And Gavarnie has a “twin brother” in the basin of Troumouse, just slightly less visited!
The powerful guardian summit of Béarn, the Pic du Midi de Bigorre (2,877 meters) is accessible by a great cable car and is home to a major astronomical observatory. One hopes to create a “starry sky reserve” around it. A poetic idea? Certainly, but also an audacious and practical project: reducing the glow from terrestrial lights (our public lighting, etc.) that reduce the effectiveness of telescopes.
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